The 2021 LVMH Prize: Lukhanyo Mdingi

Grief is a difficult thing to navigate, but last year Lukhanyo Mdingi managed to harness it and turn it into something beautiful. When his friend and fellow South African designer Nick Coutts died in 2019, Mdingi decided to dedicate a collection to his memory. "Some people post a selfie, some people write a song, some people journal it, but I wanted to do it through a body of work in his honor," he explains.

The 29-year-old launched his namesake brand in 2015, but Fall 2021 is his most meaningful collection yet. A true collaboration, Mdingi adopted the weaving technique synonymous with the late designer, learning the skills from Coutts's mother herself: "I am so grateful to Nick's family. I would have never been able to create this collection if it weren't for their blessings." Weaving throughout lockdown was a meditative way for Mdingi to mourn, allowing for reflection and healing.

It was productive too, of course, and the collection's genderless lineup is a success. The floor-sweeping fringe-trimmed scarves, woven with tactile stripes of fuzzy mohair, loopback wool, and colorful cotton, take center stage. Beyond these show-stealing pieces, there's jacquard knitwear in the shape of shrunken tank tops, layered V-neck sweaters, and form-fitting, fringed midi dresses. Timeless staples provide the perfect backdrop: louche linen separates, pleated cotton pants, Mdingi's signature mohair overshirts, and deftly cut trouser suits complete with boxy shoulders and peaked lapels.

Mdingi grew up in East London, South Africa (not to be confused with the fashion-saturated corner of England's capital). "It was your typical small coastal town," he recalls, "super wholesome, quite wonderful." He's not immediately sure how his upbringing shaped his career, but when describing his home life—"It wasn't necessarily a nuclear family, but there were a lot of women, a lot of love and support," he says—it becomes obvious. This community spirit, this sense of family, has been absorbed into his label. As he's keen to stress throughout this interview, Lukhanyo Mdingi is not a singular entity but a collective.

The way the Cape Town-based brand works—with multiple creatives felting, weaving, dyeing, and working by hand—is traditional, to say the least, and brings a new meaning to the word luxury. "Working with human beings brings a sense of artisanal craft, history, and love," Mdingi says. "It comes with a beautiful handprint, something that machines just don't have." He is the first to admit it's not always easy, though: "You're dealing with human complexities—but I've made a commitment to these relationships." How does he find these talented people? "How do you find your boyfriend?" he responds. "It's rather organic. It's based on timing, conversation. Each person has their own network and then a chain reaction is created."

There is a sense that Mdingi has found his flow in the seven short years he's been working on his label, but this wasn't always the case. "For a long time, I was frustrated about being situated in South Africa," he admits. "One would look at the infrastructure of the fashion industry and say that it's not on par with Europe or New York. We don't have the same access to things, so it's hard to produce or find the right machines."

Post-pandemic, in a more virtual world than ever, the idea of set fashion capitals feels somewhat outdated. Plus, in an industry relentlessly searching for newness, surely being different is an advantage? Mdingi agrees: "If I was in a position where I had access to everything, the label wouldn't have the soul that it has."

The 2021 LVMH Prize nominees are some of the most representative yet, including Mdingi among other talents like Christopher John Rogers, Kika Vargas, and Rui Zhou. Some creatives of color have expressed concerns that recent changes in the aftermath of George Floyd's death feel superficial, but while Mdingi is well aware of performative allyship, he's embracing this shift with nothing but positivity. "People can look at it however they want to look at it," he reasons. "Yes, big corporate companies might have an agenda, but if you're in a position to finally see yourself for the first time in a way that you haven't before because you’ve been marginalized, you really feel it." Regardless of the intention behind the developments, he believes the push for diversity and support for Black-owned businesses will have a lasting effect. "We are exposed to so much mainstream media that it can inform your conditioning," he says. "It informs how you see yourself."

This sort of wisdom has also led to mentoring gigs alongside his work on his brand, with Mdingi currently teaching ("and learning from," he insists) young graduates in an initiative organized by the Goethe-Institut Johannesburg and the French Institute of South Africa. "Sometimes you forget the best of times and people are able to jolt something in you where you are like, 'Wow, I feel ignited again,'" he says.

Does this new development feel particularly poignant at such a pivotal moment in his career, with his success so far culminating in that coveted LVMH Prize nomination? Mdingi is never one to give a yes or no answer: "I think success is between you and nobody else. It's easy to compare, to speak about the what ifs, but only you can really determine what success is based on what it means to you." In true Lukhanyo Mdingi style, it's all about appreciating the journey.

For more information, please visit LukhanyoMdingi.co.za. See the full portfolio of the 2021 LVMH Prize finalists here. Read this story and many more in print by preordering our Fall 2021 issue here.