Vintage belt by Maison Martin Margiela, early 2000s, from the David Casavant Archive.
With its minimalist design and lack of branding, this interlocking belt demonstrates the unique æsthetic the Belgian designer Martin Margiela pioneered at his namesake label.
From the Archive
In fashion, every season brings new collections, but some accessories are timeless. These celebrated designs are reinterpreted season after season, with new fabrics, colors, and hardware, becoming as much a part of a brand's identity as the logo itself. For the first in our series revisiting some of these iconic pieces, Thomas Slack, Marley Cohen, and Alicia Sciberras spotlight the bags, shoes, and other accessories that have stood the test of time, objects that are both nostalgic and enduring.
Read this story and many more in print by ordering our third issue here.
Vintage bag by Miu Miu, Fall 1998, from the David Casavant Archive. First presented with the Fall 1998 collection, this handbag represents an era of simple, ladylike silhouettes in Miuccia Prada's contemporary line.
Vintage shoes by Céline, Fall 2012, from the Albright Fashion Library. This geometric heeled shoe was introduced under the creative direction of Phoebe Philo. The silhouette became a signature identifier of the brand and was reproduced throughout her time at Céline.
Vintage bag by Dior, early 2000s, from Gabriel Held. Since being introduced by John Galliano in 1999, the Saddle Bag became one of the most iconic accessories of the early 2000s and is experiencing a revival today.
Vintage bag by Jil Sander, Fall 2012, from the David Casavant Archive. In a collection largely composed of black, Raf Simons injected playful reinterpretations of menswear, including this lunchtime paper bag, which elevates a staple of office life.
Vintage boots by Maison Martin Margiela, Spring 1999, from Artifact. Having first appeared as a prototype at the Spring 1999 show, these boots, with their cracked paint finish, reflect Martin Margiela's deconstructionist approach. The designer avoided interviews about his collections to allow room for multiple interpretations.
Vintage bag by Gucci, Spring 2006, from the Albright Fashion Library. After several years overseeing accessories under Tom Ford, Frida Giannini was named the creative director of Gucci in 2006. For her first collection, she revived the use of bamboo handles, which first began during World War II in response to rationing of leather.
Vintage bags by Hermès from the Albright Fashion Library. The Evelyne bag, at left, was first presented in 1978 and is designed to carry equestrian grooming equipment. The Constance, introduced in the Fifties, gained popularity through its association with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and is now a staple of the house.
Vintage bag by Gucci, Fall 1999, from Designer Revival.
Gucci's unstructured bucket bag, seen here with a metal handle, was originally developed under the creative direction of Tom Ford for Fall 1999 and was offered in multiple materials, with a starring role in that season’s international campaign.
Vintage watch, keychain, and handcuffs by Helmut Lang, Spring 2004 and Fall 2004, from the David Casavant Archive.
This whistle, bracelet, keychain, and handcuff were all created in 2004 with Helmut Lang's signature subversive approach and live on as recognizable brand pieces from the time.
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